Policies & wood care.

Green wood

Customers who buy green (wet) wood from The Wood Shoppe on Mill Street do so with the understanding that the wood will need to be air dried or kiln dried so it doesn't bend or crack.

Kiln drying

Customers who buy green wood, or bring their own wood to dry, pay a fee to have it placed in our Nyle dehumidification kiln or solar kiln, and pick it up once drying is complete.

Pickup timing is an estimate, because we can't predict exactly how long a load will take. Drying can be delayed by the thickness, species, overall size and starting moisture content of the wood, the target moisture content, kiln maintenance, repairs or breakdowns, weather, staff availability, and breakdowns of the equipment used to load and unload the kiln.

If drying takes longer than estimated, we'll evaluate a percentage off the final price. No full refunds are given, as there are real costs involved, including labour, equipment use, restocking, electricity and space. We'll make every effort to let you know about any delays.

We aren't liable for wood that comes out of the kiln bent or cracked. If a piece comes out bent to the point of being unusable, we'll refund your money in full or offer a different slab of equal value. Once a slab leaves the property, no refund is offered.

The precautions we take

• Strapping all wood down tight and re-tightening every few days.
• Stacking and stickering properly to allow good airflow.
• Drying slowly at first, raising the temperature as moisture content drops.
• Conditioning at the end of the cycle so the wood can relax rather than case harden.
• Holding the kiln at 160°F for at least 36 hours so the core reaches 133°F, which sterilizes the wood of insects.
• Stress-testing the wood, and reconditioning any load that isn't fully relieved.

Even with these precautions, some pieces can still come out case hardened; we can't prevent it 100% of the time. We aren't liable for a case-hardened slab that bends after being planed down too far, too fast, leaving too little thickness to work with.

Deposits

Deposits for wood purchases, kiln drying, milling, log removal and any other product or service are non-refundable.

A 50% non-refundable deposit is required for any of these products and services not paid in full up front. The remaining balance is due when the job or service is complete.

Acclimating live edge wood after kiln drying

Acclimating live edge wood properly after kiln drying is crucial for stability, and helps prevent warping, cracking and uneven moisture content.

1. Choose the acclimation space

• Acclimate the wood in the same environment where it will be used: a climate-controlled room for indoor projects, or a covered, well-ventilated area for outdoor ones.
• Choose a space with consistent temperature and humidity. Avoid garages or basements prone to swings in humidity.

2. Prepare the wood

• Inspect each slab for existing cracks, checks or damage.
• Seal the ends with a product like Anchorseal if that wasn't done before kiln drying, to prevent end checking.
• Remove sawdust and debris that could trap moisture or block airflow.

3. Sticker and stack

• Place stickers (thin, dry wooden strips of uniform thickness) between slabs every 12–16 inches along their length.
• Align the stickers vertically to prevent uneven pressure or bending.
• Weight the top of the stack, with cinder blocks for example, to reduce the risk of warping.

4. Monitor moisture content

• Use a moisture meter and measure at several points on each slab, especially near the edges and centre.
• Check the equilibrium moisture content of the space, and make sure the slabs adjust toward it gradually, usually 6–9% for indoor use.

5. Control the environment

• Keep a steady temperature of about 65–75°F (18–24°C) for indoor projects.
• Keep relative humidity between 30–50% indoors, checked with a hygrometer; use a humidifier or dehumidifier if needed.

6. Inspect regularly

• Every day or two, check that slabs stay flat, with no warping or cupping.
• Look for new cracks or checks forming on the ends and surfaces.
• Confirm moisture content is stabilizing and stickers are still properly placed.

7. Give it time

Slabs under 1 inch thick generally need 1–3 weeks. Thicker slabs can need up to 6 weeks or more, depending on thickness, density and environment.